Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: Temple Group #3 The Great Living Chola Temples

The Great Living Chola Temples

The Great Living Chola Temples are a group of 3 Chola era temples that are designated together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to their outstanding cultural and architectural value. The temples are the Brihadishvarar or Peruvudayar Temple or the Big Temple at Thanjavur, the Brihadishvarar Temple at Gangaikondacholapuram and the Airavatesvarar Temple at Darasuram. Together they represent an era in Tamil history when great heights were achieved in the development of temple building in the Tamil country. They are treasure houses of the impressive sculptural art of the period. All three draw thousands of devotees, temple enthusiasts and tourists every year. The Cholas ruled for four centuries beginning in the late 9th century until their eventual decline and demise in the 13th century. During that time they built a great number of granite temples throughout the Tamil country but largely centred in the Chola heartland around Thanjavur, Kumbakonam and Trichy. Picking up where the Pallavas left off, they continued to build in stone as opposed to temples of a previous era built of brick, wood and other perishable materials. Throughout the 10th century they concentrated on renovating and rebuilding in stone temples of immense religious significance. For example, the Paadal Petra Sthalangal were rebuilt in stone during that period to the extent that we do not know how the original temples looked like. Having thus honed their skills in building stone temples, they set out to build new temples of their own. These temples are symbolic of that grand effort. The Chola kings were deeply Saivite and these three temples are dedicated to Lord Siva. Jointly administered by the Archeological Survey of India or the ASI and the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department or HR and CE of the Government of Tamil Nadu, the preservation of the temples is the responsibility of the ASI. The HR and CE is in charge of the day-to-day functioning of the temples. Damaged, desecrated, abused, plundered and neglected during alien invasions over the centuries and colonial rule, today what remains of these temples is reasonably well preserved and at least some of the rituals are continued making them living legacies of Chola grandeur. Unlike some other temples which have been built over many different eras and contributed to by various dynasties, these temples for the most part were built during the reign of a single monarch.

1. Brihadishvarar or Peruvudayar Temple or the Big Temple at Thanjavur

   Completed in 1010 CE, this temple was commissioned and consecrated by the great Chola emperor Rajaraja I. In a way, it was built to reflect the growing power the Chola empire and the deep devotion of the emperor towards Lord Siva. It was modelled on earlier smaller temples but built on a massive scale. To this day it remains one of the largest temple structures in India. At a height of almost 60 meters the tall vimanan is an impressive structure. It is to be noted that this is a vimanam built over the sanctum sanctorum and not a gopuram as it is often mistakenly referred to as. The main structure was built during Rajarajan's reign. A few external structures have been added in the 13th century and in the 16th century during the rule of the Nayakkar of Thanjavur. The temple is located in Thanjavur.

2. Brihadishvarar Temple at Gangaikondacholapuram

   This temple was built by the son of Rajaraja I, the great Chola emperor Rajendra Chola I. Many believe that Chola power was at its peak under Rajendra. He established a new capital at Gangaikondacholapuram to commemorate the success of the expedition he sent north to subdue the kingdoms along the eastern coast. The expedition brought back symbolic pots of water from the Ganga giving the new city its name. He built this temple to embellish his new capital. It was completed in 1035 CE. The vimanam is 55 meters tall and is a bit shorter than Thanjavur, but is more beautiful. It has an upward concavity which gives it a certain feminity and grace as opposed to the more angular and masculine vimanam at Thanjavur, The temple is located in Gangaikondacholapuram close to Jayamkondan.

3. Airavatesvarar Temple at Darasuram

   This temple was built by Rajaraja II and was completed in 1166 CE. Named after Lord Indra's elephant the Airavatham, it not as large as the other two temples in this group and does not sport a tall vimanam. But the sculptural art is more intricate and advanced tnan the other two. Especially interesting is the Rajagambhira Thirumandapam or Royal Courtyard. It is built in the form of a chariot and has ornate pillars and other sculptures carved out of stone. The temple is located on the outskirts of Kumbakonam.

Courtesy Google Maps

Access:

These three temples are fairly close to each other. Dharasuram is on the outskirts of Kumbakonam which is good place to stay to visit this temple. Thanjavur also has good accommodation. Trichy is not too far away either. Gangaikondacholapuram is about 45 minutes from Kumbakonam and an hour from Thanjavur by car.