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Writer's pictureSudharshan

Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #63: Chandramouleeswarar Temple or Vakrakaliamman Temple, Thiruvakkarai

சந்திரமவுலீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் அல்லது திருவக்ரகாளியம்மன் ஆலயம், திருவக்கரை


Situated in Vilupuram District of Tamil Nadu near Thindivanam just outside of Pondicherry, this ancient temple is a Sivan temple and a Paadal Petra Sthalam but is better known for the Amman shrine here - Vakrakaliamman. Legend says that a demon called Vakrasuran was slain here and the place was called Vakrapuri in ancient times. Hence the name for the Goddess here. Like places such as Madurai (Meenakshi) or Kanchipuram the goddess takes preeminence over the Lord here. The pathikam was rendered by Thirugnanasambanthar.


கறையணி மாமிடற்றான் கரி காடரங்

காவுடையான்

பிறையணி கொன்றையினா னொரு பாகமும்

பெண்ணமர்ந்தான்

மறையவன் றன்றலையிற் பலி கொள்பவன்

வக்கரையில்

உறைபவ னெங்கள்பிரா னொலி யார்கழ

லுள்குதுமே


The temple has existed since Pallava times according to references. The earliest inscriptions pertain to the reign of Aditya I ( Paranthakan I ‘s father) essentially the first Chola emperor in the early 10th century. He is credited with the initial construction in granite but a number of Chola kings and queens have made contributions to the temple in later years. Sembian Mahadevi, Rajarajan, Rajendran and Athirajendran have all made contributions and inscriptions. The beautiful seven tiered rajagopuram is likely Nayakkan or later.


This temple has some unusual features. Unlike other temples the rajagopuram, kodimaram, Nandi and the moolasthaanam are not in a straight line. It could be that due to the great antiquity of the temple, they were built in different eras. Or was it by design? Vakkiram means crooked in Tamil. The Saneeswaran here is also unusual in that his vahanam (vehicle) the crow faces left as opposed to right everywhere else. He is called Vakrasaneeswarar here and is thought to be very special. The lingam in the sanctum sanctorum has three faces and is also very unique.


The temple is very popular and was very crowded when we were there. There were signs forbidding photos and I could not take good pictures as there were people everywhere.


It is located 25 km or 45 minutes west of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry.



Credits: Google Maps


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