வேதகிரீசுவரர் மற்றும் பக்தவத்சலேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் திருக்கழுக்குன்றம்
Also spelled Thirukkazhukundram (the "zh" stands for the retroflex "l" in Tamil), this is actually a twin temple complex. The beautiful temple at the base of the hill is known as the Bhaktavachaleswarar Temple and the temple on the hilltop is the Vedagiriswarar Temple.
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, these two temples are much venerated and have a long and celebrated history. Thirukalukundram is praised in the Thevaram and the Thiruvasagam. It is one of those temples that have the special distinction of being mentioned in the works of all four of the Naalvar, Thirugnasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar, Sundaramoorthy Nayanar and Manickavasagar. Thus it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and a Thiruvasaga Sthalam.
Legends abound here. Until recently two Egyptian Vultures used to visit the temple on the hilltop every day at noon to be fed by the priests. Egyptian vultures are native to India despite their name. The birds that came here were vultures and not eagles as mentioned in some places. They disappeared in the late 1990s. The story goes that two ancient sages who had a spell cast on them by the Lord for their arrogance, were destined to live as vultures and prayed here for many yugas for their salvation. When they had done their penance they would be liberated. Another belief is that they would come only until good people existed in the area in this Kali Yugam. Another explanation is that the widespread use of the commonly used anti-inflammatory medication diclofenac has devastated the vulture population in India. Diclofenac which is found in the carcasses of animals the vultures consume causes kidney failure in vultures within hours. Diclofenac is used to treat cattle in veterinary medicine. Whatever the reason the birds do not come to this temple complex named after them anymore.
The Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is a complete large temple at the bottom of the hill with four magnificent gopurams and theerthams. It is customary to visit it first and then climb the 562 steps to visit the Vedagiriswarar on the hilltop. The hilltop temple is precariously positioned on the summit of the hill. The hill is about 500 feet in height. The area comprising the two temples and sacred hill is a vast 265 acres. The Vedagiriswarar does not have a Nandhi at the top. The Nandhi is located at the Bhaktavachaleswarar and is gazing towards the hill. The vimanam of the Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam style
Given its great antiquity and spiritual significance, it has had contributions from many dynasties and individuals from different eras. The small cave temple found close to the top on the hillside, known as Orukkal Mandapam (ஒருக்கல் மண்டபம்- single stone mandapam) is believed to have been built by the Pallava king Mahendra Varman who ruled from CE 610 to 640. It has been heavily vandalized by British soldiers who were stationed here during the colonial period.
Thirukalukundram is a special temple in so many ways and is one of my favourites. It is located in Chengalpattu, 2 hours or 72 km south of Chennai.
We visited in August 2017 and May 2023. We were based in CXhennai
Credits: Google Maps
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