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Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #33: Adhi Kumbeswarar Temple, Kumbakonam

Updated: Mar 26

ஆதிகும்பேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் கும்பகோணம்


Kumbakonam is in many ways the centre of the Tamil Saivite heartland. The ancient Chola capital of Pazhayarai is nearby. The Cholas were deeply Saivite kings and appear to have never converted even during the heyday of Buddhism and Jainism in the Tamil country. This area was one of the last bastions from which Tamil Saivism was revived in the seventh century by the Nayanmar and the Bhakti Movement. The rise of Chola power after Vijayalayan's daring attack on the Mutharaiyar of Thanjavur in the mid ninth century gave further fillip to the revitalization of Saivite Hinduism. So this area has numerous ancient Sivan temples. Kumbakonam has other ancient names such as Kudanthai and Kudamukku.


The Adhi Kumbeswarar is close to the centre of the town of Kumbakonam and is one of the largest and oldest temples there. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and has been venerated in Thevarams by Thirunavukkarasar and Thirugnasampanthar. It is the 143rd Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 26th south of the Kaveri in the Chola Nadu. So it must have existed in some form in the early 7th century. The current masonry has a 9th century Chola core and has been extensively renovated by Vijayanagar kings and Thanjavur Nayakkar from the 15th to 17th centuries with addition of tall gopurams and mandapams,


This is an east facing temple and the eastern rajagopuram is an imposing 128 feet, 9 tiered affair. One of the rajagopurams is a Mottai gopuram with no tower. The actual tower was never built or has not survived. It still looks beautiful and is a prominent feature..There is a long covered colonnaded corridor with ornate pillars leading from the main rajagopuram to the sanctum. The Sivalingam here is made of sand. The temple has many mandapams. The most notable is the Navaratri Mandapam built during Vijayanagar times. It is known for the sculpture of the 27 stars and 12 rasis carved on a single stone.


Two other Paadal Petra Sthalams, the Someswarar (not to be confused with the Someswarar of Pazhayarai) or Kudanthai Kaaronam and the Nageswaranatha Temple (not Thirunageswaram on the outskirts of Kumbakonam) and the fabulous Sarangapani Temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu are within walking distance of this temple.


The temple is still a very active temple and is always full of worshippers. It is controlled and administered by the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department of the Tamil Nadu Government, the HR and CE. It is located at the centre of the town of Kumbakonam, an hour drive or 38 km northeast of Thanjavur.


We visited in July 2012. We stayed in Kumbakonam.



Credits: Google Maps

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